"Hey what's Ellora? Where is it?" These questions from my friend when I told her that we were planning a trip to Ellora and Ajanta completely took me aback. I tried to explain the greatness of Ellora caves but soon discovered that I was way out of depth in my own knowledge of this great work of art. It is true that we are blessed with so much history and culture but are only dimly aware of it. I realize it now after so many years that a much more rigorous study is needed to fully appreciate the unique aspects and magnificence of not only our own but any history and culture.
We had engaged a well read ITDC certified guide Amol who came highly recommended by my cousin Anil, who himself is a very senior and well respected guide in India. The description about Ellora that follows is all thanks to the sharp analytical mind of Amol as well as his in depth study of the region's history and culture. He literally brought the stone monument alive.
So let us begin the enquiry. What is the distinguishing aspect of Ellora? There are over 100 caves of which 34 are open for viewing. These were carved out between 6th and 12th Century CE and reflect Buddhism, Hinduism and Jainism. All these caves are 'Carved Out' of the rock as contrasted with 'Carved In' monuments which are plenty all around the world. So whats the essential difference? In this case, the building material is carried out of the cave where as in Carved in caves, the building material is carried in.
Said differently, this monument was created by creating spaces with in the rock and chiseling away the rock to bring forth the intended form or structure. Do you now see how difficult this is? For one, there is no possibility of rework - so it has to be right the first time each time. This as we all know is a tall feat to achieve in any area of work.
We spent much of our time visiting Cave # 16 which has the Kailash Temple. The temple is decorated with some of the boldest and finest sculptural compositions to be found in India.
The sculpture depicting Ravana attempting to lift Mount Kailasa, the abode of Siva, is especially noteworthy. Ramayana and Mahabharata stories are carved out on the side walls.
Like me I am sure you will be wondering why would this large monument be carved out of rock in this part of the world. The answer came from our guide that this place was along an ancient trade route to other countries. This meant that the traders who passed thru here would see this monument and spread the word about its magnificence and thus the fame of the King who sponsored this will travel far and wide.
Last but not the least, one marvels at the technology that made chiseling and digging tools that could break basaltic rock. The steel that is required is carbon tempered steel and one wonders how the people in those times got their hands on these!!
Ellora caves are highly accessible from the nearest major Airport which is Aurangabad Airport or Railway station or as we had done, you can simply drive in your vehicle. From Mumbai it took us about 8 hours end to end including a couple of stops of about 1 hour for lunch and tea.
Best time to visit is winter months since the ambient temperatures are nice and pleasant.
